Just installed a vortex front sprocket 3517-15, on my 04 r6, and after installing, and adjusting chain properly, went to go roadtest, and i have alot of growling comming from chain, in accel, decel, and coast, removed it and checked everything, and cannot find anything wrong, sounds like new sprocket, and old chain, and old rear sprocket sre nt meshing together right at all, what do you think i should do know, or if any of you all have ran into this same problem before. Oh yeah if you could not tell by te part number its a 15 tooth sprocket.
Hi guys, I decided to swap my front sprocket on the 2015 Versys 650 from 15 to 16 teeth, so I got myself a Vortex 16T front sprocket Kawasaki 520 chain #3823-15 (for 2007-2011 Kawasaki ZX600 Ninja ZX-6R). I went with this one because the outer part of the sprocket is separated from the inner with a rubber mount, which most likely will be smoother. I used the following tools: 8mm and 10 mm sockets with socket wrench and extension, 12 mm open wrench, and 27 mm deep impact socket with impact socket wrench, a screwdriver, pliers, and a hammer. First, I put the bike in neutral and took off the plastic cover by unscrewing the two 8 mm screws with the socket wrench and wrench extension. Then, I removed the magnetic pickup sensor with the 10 mm socket wrench and I undid the safety washer. Next, I unscrewed the main nut with the 27 mm impact socket wrench – turning counterclockwise. I removed the cotter pin from the rear spindle, and I loosened up the crown nut with the 27 socket wrench.
Then, I loosened the chain adjustment bolts and then I was able to pull the sprocket out from the shaft. After that, I installed the new sprocket. For that, I used a torque wrench to tighten the sprocket at 92 ft-Lb and to tighten the rear axle nut at 80 ft-Lb. My new sprocket was a little thicker than the original one in the spline area, but it still works fine. I’d like to also point out that there is very little clearance left now between the chain and outside housing. I measured it, and it is only 0.020 inches (0.5 mm). A little tight for my taste, but it still works fine.
I wanted to bring the bike to the correct speed reading, and, after some testing with my GPS, which now shows 1 mph faster than the bike’s clock across the whole spectrum of gears and speeds versus 3 to 4 mph the other way before. Most likely, the bike will be more frugal if comes to gas, but I was mostly concerned with having a more accurate speed read and perhaps a little less vibration (although the 2015 Versys 650 is pretty smooth in the first place). If you were hoping to install the 17T front sprocket, I can assure you that it is not going to fit. Hope you will find it useful.
Hi guys.I went with this one because the outer part of the sprocket is separated from the inner with a rubber mount, which most likely will be smoother.I'm pretty sure the rubber dampners are only on the outside face of the sprocket. The sprocket is not separated or 2 pieces held together by rubber - i don't think there is a rubber strong enough to hold them together! The rubber is stuck on the sides to help quieten the noise by reducing resonance in the sprocket. I have a JT 16T that has no rubber dampners and the noise level is negliagble as I have a slip on exhaust - but those who have the stock exhaust you might hear a slight sprocket whine when there is no rubber dampners. I found the 15T is to too aggressive and sporty.
1st gear is fast and hard, 2nd is useless in corners as there is too much engine braking and the revs are very high. The 16T really tames the engine.
Bike runs smoother, you can use 1st gear to slow down and 2nd gear is better in corners. If you need to 1st is still easy to ride hairpins.
You drop about 500rpm in 6th cruising. There are plenty of threads about the 16T front or 44T rear swaps - Try search. Other riders have no issues 2 up or loaded for a tour. Speedy I'm glad you did not have an issue undoing the front sprocket on the 2015. Looks like Kawasaki finally sacked the monkey that tightened alot of ours! I'll have your post printed out and next to me when I do mine!!!
Vortex Sprockets Review
I do have a few questions for ya though. How much did the sprocket effect starting acceleration? I do a little 2-up with the wife, just wanna make sure we will have no problem starting on a hill with 2 people, loaded panniers & rear case Not much as far as I can tell.
As you know, the bike has a lot of torque. How much was the sprocket if you don't mind me asking? Well, I got lucky. I got it for free from my buddy way back before I bought my new Versys. But, he had a different bike, so I wasn't even sure if it would work.
Any idea what your highway RPMs run at for lets say 70MPH and 80MPH? Will have to come back to you on that one. Great writeup!
I'll have your post printed out and next to me when I do mine!!! I do have a few questions for ya though. How much did the sprocket effect starting acceleration? I do a little 2-up with the wife, just wanna make sure we will have no problem starting on a hill with 2 people, loaded panniers & rear case. How much was the sprocket if you don't mind me asking?. Any idea what your highway RPMs run at for lets say 70MPH and 80MPH? Thank you again for the writeup!
Your RPMs and speed will read exactly the same as stock no matter what sprocket that you have on your bike. But in actuality, your RPMs will be lower at the same speed.
The 16 tooth sprocket definitely makes a big difference in acceleration or lack there off. It is still very good but just doesn't seem as quick as stock gearing. I like it on mine but some people don't like it on their's. To each his own. A 16 tooth countershaft sprocket results in gearing that is 6.66% taller than with stock 15/46 sprockets.
Indicated rpm in relation to indicated speed doesn't change, as the speed sensor is on the countershaft. The 16 tooth reduces speedometer error to near nill, but increases odometer error to about -6%.
RPM at actual 60 mph (98 kph) is down by about 267 rpm to about 4250 rpm. At an actual 130 kph (81 mph), rpm is reduced by about 380 rpm to around 5640. 16/46 is about the same as 15/43 which some have opted for. I found it to be overkill on gearing, so I then went with 15/45. Many have opted for 15/44 which is also an ideal setup. Your RPMs and speed will read exactly the same as stock no matter what sprocket that you have on your bike.
But in actuality, your RPMs will be lower at the same speed. The 16 tooth sprocket definitely makes a big difference in acceleration or lack there off. It is still very good but just doesn't seem as quick as stock gearing. I like it on mine but some people don't like it on their's. To each his own.
Sent from no Changing you final drive does change things. Your indicated speed on the cluster is calculated form the front sprocket nut. Your km traveled is also calculated from the front sprocket nut. By changing the final drive ratio you change your indicated speed as detected by the GPS. For me with Pirelli Angel GT tyres at stock sizes (other brand tyres can affect rolling diameter): 15/46T ratio, 60km/hr indicated = 57km GPS 16/46T ratio, 60km/hr indicated = 63 km GPS For me to stay legal in 60kph zone I have to travel 57kph indicated on my speedo.
(GPS shows 60kph) In 100kph zone I have to keep speedo at 96 kph (GPS shows 100kph) Now I'm an running with better economy and this has nothing to to with RPM or engine power. I just run at the same GPS speed and the RPMs are lower. Engine still makes the same power. You change your final drive gearing to suit your riding style - just like the go-karts and track day racers. If you are at a race track which is slow and technical you would choose a lower gearing so you can accelerate quickly at low speed and tight corners.
On a fast track with high speed straights. Well you need taller gearing so you don't bounce on the rev limiter at 160kph! Speed is time! If you want to play with sprocket final drive gearing, I highly recommend you goto:. So I find myself doing more and more long distance trips and riding.
This being said I replaced the stock 15 tooth countershaft sprocket, (front) with a 16 tooth. Now my question is will I continue to lower RPM's enough to have a smoother highway ride and less engine wear and still have enough performance to have fun in the twisties if I add in a 46 tooth rear sprocket?
Also Can I do this with the stock chain length as the bike and OEM chain still only has about 3000 miles on them. I will be changing tires soon (by choice not necessity) so making the rear sprocket change would be easy enough. So I find myself doing more and more long distance trips and riding. This being said I replaced the stock 15 tooth countershaft sprocket, (front) with a 16 tooth. Now my question is will I continue to lower RPM's enough to have a smoother highway ride and less engine wear and still have enough performance to have fun in the twisties if I add in a 46 tooth rear sprocket? Also Can I do this with the stock chain length as the bike and OEM chain still only has about 3000 miles on them. I will be changing tires soon (by choice not necessity) so making the rear sprocket change would be easy enough.
Thanks!I had a 16 on my 07, which made the speed exact with my GPS, 6% reduction in torque and longer between shifts, could do 100 KM/HR in 2nd. Devil may cry 5 2017. Going any taller there is no advantage. In 6th gear my RPM dropped 500 RPM @ 115 KM/HR, by going to 16T. No problem riding two up, and that is full load on the bike. It won't pop wheelies in 3rd, just first and second Just keep in mind the motor is designed to run at 6 to 7000 RPM all day. I routinely hit 9000 to 10000 RPM every day on my ride. Starting off in second gear is possible but you will notice it.
My only reason for change was the speedometer reading 6% high, since then my GPS comes along all the time. For now my 2015 is stock, and I don't forsee changing back to 16T, even though I have the sprocket. BTW one plus is your chain sees 6% less torque with 16T, changing the rear sprocket has the reverse effect as to torque on chain.
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